I would like to biuy the keychain gps unit VERSION 2 from chris. what is his screen name or his pm name fpor the forum. his email of course would be the best way to contact him. please send me any helpful info you may have for me so I could send over payment to him. thank you
above is chris' email address. she should contact you soon with the link to paypal.
be sure and let her know you are a member of this site so that she will know where you got this info from. you should be a member of the site in order to get the good deal..
Man I wish I'd known that 2 months after the release of their first keychain GPS unit, there would be a new model that's twice as good for the same price!
Man I wish I'd known that 2 months after the release of their first keychain GPS unit, there would be a new model that's twice as good for the same price!
In terms of technical specification there is not a great deal of difference between the first version and the second one. The biggest difference is just in the looks and that the first one uses SiRF StarIII and the GPS 2000 uses MTK.
In practical terms you might in "some" areas find that one works slightly better then the other but it is still only going to be a matter of a few seconds off a cold start.
We are still selling the original keychain GPS as well, overall it is no better or worse then the newer one and this just gives people a bigger choice in the style and chipset that they want.
the 51 vs. 20 satellites is the thing that caught my attention. I thought might improve on the initial time it takes to find a signal. Sometimes, when travelling, I've sat in my rental car upwards of 10 minutes waiting for a signal.
Hey, I just got the freedom key chain GPS (didn't know about the 2000 until now), and I'm having trouble getting it to work on my sprint Mogul ppc 6800. It seems to pair up ok, but when I try to use it in Google Maps, it says that it can't find the GPS unit. I tried to set up the COM ports, but I haven't had any luck. I'm new to using a GPS device and messing with the COM ports. If anyone could help me out with this, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
After pairing the device, create a COM port for it by clicking on the "COM ports" tab in the 6800's Bluetooth Settings and then clicking "new outgoing port" and pick the COM port number you want to assign it to (I chose COM4). Then go into the google map settings and tell it to look for the GPS on COM4. That's it. You don't need to change anything in the Windows Mobile "External GPS" program. In case you did change those settings, the "GPS Program Port" should be set to "(None)" and the same for the GPS Hardware Port. You should also have a checkmark next to "Manage GPS automatically".
BTW, I moved your post from the FKG 2000 thread to this one since the thread you posted in is for the 2000 and this one is for the original FKG.
I have put together a short video on how to connect the GPS unit to a Windows Mobile 2005 Pocket PC. I will hopefully get time today to do some more for 2006 PPC's and 05/06 WM Smartphones and will edit this post with links once they are up.
The video uses the GPS 2000 unit but the process is the same for all bluetooth GPS units (Passkey may be different). The video also uses GoogleMaps but most navigation software is the same (you go into setting/options and select the GPS source).
Location updates only when moving faster than 3mph?
I've had my Freedom mini GPS receiver for some time now and have been quite pleased with it, using Google Maps and Live Search to lookup info based on my current location, see moving maps, etc. However, I recently tried using it for an application that requires it to update the location data when walking (specifically while hiking and geocaching).
In this case, I tried a couple different programs (CacheMate and Beeline GPS) that read in the NMEA data stream from the GPS to tell you the bearing and distance to a waypoint, and in every case, the location would only update when I was moving faster than about 2.5-3.0 miles per hour (tested in my car in a parking lot at various speeds and monitoring the output).
My understanding was that this GPS used a modern chipset that would provide fast hot/cold acquisition times and provide continuous location updates. While it is definitely fast to acquire a location lock, the location does not update unless you are in a moving vehicle, which eliminates its usefulness for some applications, e.g., tracking your location while walking/hiking/geocaching.
Is there a way to change how the receiver updates its current location so that you can get a finer level of updates? All other GPS units I've ever owned provided continuous location updates, so I'm wondering why this one doesn't...
On another note, my only other complaint about this unit is that it is far too easy to accidentally turn on. Given that it is intended to be put on a keychain, once in my pocket, the switch is easily moved, turning the unit on and draining the battery until some time later when I finally notice the flashing lights indicating it is up and running.
In this case, I tried a couple different programs (CacheMate and Beeline GPS) that read in the NMEA data stream from the GPS to tell you the bearing and distance to a waypoint, and in every case, the location would only update when I was moving faster than about 2.5-3.0 miles per hour (tested in my car in a parking lot at various speeds and monitoring the output).
Is there a way to change how the receiver updates its current location so that you can get a finer level of updates? All other GPS units I've ever owned provided continuous location updates, so I'm wondering why this one doesn't...
The reason for this is something called "static navigation". All GPS units will "drift" slightly while you are standing still. Depending on your location, the relative location and signal strength this "drift" can be anywhere from 1m upwards.
To work around this most new GPS units uses something called "static navigation". What this does is works out when you have stopped and this then adjusts the GPS data to remove the drift. This is great when you are moving over a couple of miles an hour as it means when your in your car and stop at the traffic lights the GPS see's that you have stopped and your mapping software doesn't suddenly jump you three streets over.
The problem is though that when moving at low speeds (as you said less then 3mph) it can get confused between your slow movement and the GPS drift.
It is possible to disable static navigation but it does involve changing the firmware on the GPS unit (which invalidates the warranty). To do this you need to use a program called SiRFDemo.